Author Archives: Remy Charest

Really simple sautéed zucchini

I got another batch of nice, small, firm zucchini in my CSA basket, this week, so I’m looking forward to making what has become my favorite – and easiest – recipe for them. A 10-minute lunch operation, tasty and filling enough to make a vegetarian meal. First time I made it was actually a midnight meal, [...]
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Eating local: What’s in your basket?

It was Ruhlman that started it. Mark Ruhlman is one of my favorite chefs. The book on Charcuterie he wrote with Brian Polcyn is what helped me start making dry-cured ham and other things like bacon and chorizo. I follow his tweets, and this morning, he started a very civilized game of I’ll-show-you-mine-if-you-show-me-yours by asking people to send [...]
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Caramelized peach sorbet – no ice cream machine required

I’d been thinking of this recipe for three years at least. At a restaurant I particularly loved, L’Utopie, which unfortunately closed last year, desserts often featured all sorts of interesting ice creams (including “nature” – i.e., no flavor added, which made you realize that vanilla really is a flavor, not the “default”, neutral variety of [...]
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Cooking Live: Penne with asparagus, parmesan and lemon

I discovered this simple recipe last year at Tastecamp, when David Page, of Shinn Vineyards, in Long Island, made it for a group of bloggers attending this blogger meeting. Simple, delicious. I must have gone back for three servings. It was just a great balance of flavors – and it went pretty well with the [...]
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The taste of oil

If cooking was a Hollywood movie, oil would be relegated to a very small supporting role. A couple of lines, nothing memorable, nothing to build a career on. Frankly, with the way most generic vegetable oils taste, that’s a proper casting. Your average corn, canola or sunflower oil doesn’t have have much personality: it may be [...]
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Cooking Live: parmesan-encrusted chicken breasts with a stovetop paella (of sorts)

In mid-January, the New York Times published an article by Melissa Clark entitled Recapturing the Glory of Boneless, Skinless Chicken Breasts. The premice to the article was that this piece of chicken, lauded for dietary reason, was also a rather boring, as far as flavor and texture were concerned. With the help of some fine [...]
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L’Oignonnée: simple braising for your roasted leg of lamb

This is kind of a double-layered post. It’s about braising, but only after roasting. It starts with a roasted leg of lamb, cooked rare, as it should, with a nice coating of herbs, spices and olive oil, with a crispy outside and moist inside. It continues with the leftover meat, which is
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Sprucing up leftovers: beef-mushroom stew on Twitter Cooking Live

Some leftovers are particularly tough to deal with. For years I’ve dreaded the extra meat left after a Chinese fondue. That thinly sliced meat is not an easy thing to cook. Boiling it is kind of boring, stewing it leads to a rather mushy result, and frying it is also not as simple as it [...]
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A New Year’s resolution for home cooks: stop measuring so much

OK, I’ve got a resolution that should be easier to keep than, say, quitting smoking or losing ten pounds. Next time you cook, whether following a recipe or improvising, let go of the measuring implements, and follow your instincts and your senses. I’m not proposing that we go back to pre-Fannie Farmer, Boston Cookbook days, when [...]
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Year-old ham, dried bacon and Christmas marvels

All sorts of wonderful treats are on the table at Christmas time. And I’m especially proud of some that we served last night for pre-dinner drinks. A dry-cured ham that had been hanging in my cellar for a little over a year and some delightful air-dried bacon from this fall’s Operation Half-Pig accompanied the just-finished [...]
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