I’d been thinking of this recipe for three years at least. At a restaurant I particularly loved, L’Utopie, which unfortunately closed last year, desserts often featured all sorts of interesting ice creams (including “nature” – i.e., no flavor added, which made you realize that vanilla really is a flavor, not the “default”, neutral variety of ice cream). Talking with the chef, Stéphane Modat, I suddenly got the idea that using caramelized fruit in a sorbet would give it an interesting extra layer of flavor.
Peaches seemed like one of the most interesting candidates, and when I came back from the Niagara region, this week, with the generous gift of a whole box of peaches, the idea of trying to make that caramelized peach sorbet came back to me. So off I went.
I picked five very ripe peaches and Read More






Eating local: What’s in your basket?
The contents of this week's CSA basket from La Mauve, a coop in the Bellechasse region, southeast of Quebec City
It was Ruhlman that started it.
Mark Ruhlman is one of my favorite chefs. The book on Charcuterie he wrote with Brian Polcyn is what helped me start making dry-cured ham and other things like bacon and chorizo.
I follow his tweets, and this morning, he started a very civilized game of I’ll-show-you-mine-if-you-show-me-yours by asking people to send him pictures of their own CSA basket to compare with his. He’s been reporting on his season of community-supported agriculture baskets for the last dozen weeks, sharing impressions (like his hatred of green peppers), recipes and evaluations, and today, he got into a comparative mode.
I’m glad for his suggestion. I was looking to write a piece about the pleasures of eating locally in the summertime, and this was the little nudge I needed, I guess.
From the picture above, you’ll see that Read More »